Does Volufiline actually work?
Many pros say that the science isn’t quiiiiiite there to support such claims yet. “Volufiline is an interesting example of a cosmetic ingredient whose marketing has moved far ahead of the science,” says Caren Campbell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco. Think of it like PDRN and exosomes: skin-care buzzwords that were everywhere all of a sudden, with big, flashy claims that weren’t necessarily backed up by strong clinical data.
So what could be causing that plumping effect? Dr. Campbell points to a few things: It can be temporary swelling from potential irritation from the Volufiline product, as she notes that the oil carrier can be irritating, and the botanical extract could “cause contact reactions.” Or it could be the way it lies on the skin and reflects light. Think about how your skin looks when you apply a layer of your favorite hyaluronic acid serum or peptide moisturizer. It’s visibly better, right? Bouncier, glowier, more awake and alive-looking. That could be what users are seeing from Volufiline.
Plus, she says, “Many Volufiline products are also blended with oils and moisturizing ingredients that can temporarily smooth fine lines and make the skin appear fuller,” which gives a noticeable cosmetic effect. However, that is “very different from actually increasing fat volume or structurally reshaping the face.”
Chang Son, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who practices in New York and New Jersey, agrees and compares the much-praised effects of Volufiline to applying eye cream to dry, tired-looking undereyes: “It doesn’t matter which one, but if you put on a lot of eye cream you’re hydrating the area, which is very vulnerable to dehydration and therefore attracts wrinkles,” he explains, alluding to the fact that dryness can promote the look of fine lines. “We know that alone is gonna improve [the look], right?”
Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in New York City, says that based on what she’s seen, research-wise, “I think a well-formulated product containing Volufiline may make skin appear smoother, softer, and subtly plumper, but hydration and improved skin quality may account for at least some of that visible effect.”
Experts note that while there’s nothing wrong with using Volufiline—it’s safe to use if you purchase it from a reputable source—the science simply has yet to establish whether or not it’s making a legitimate difference in your facial fullness the way filler does. Says Dr. Campbell, “At this time, there is no credible, peer-reviewed clinical evidence showing that topical Volufiline meaningfully increases facial fat or produces filler-like results.” There’s only a small amount of data regarding Volufiline’s effectiveness available right now, given that the ingredient is pretty new.
Dr. Sass explains that the current data comes from in vitro data, where the ingredient is directly applied to cells, not to skin. A study conducted by Sederma, where the ingredient was applied to one breast of 30 women for 56 days, found that the Volufiline-treated breast showed a 2.2% volume increase. However, “that volume increase could have happened via a wide variety of factors, so I think more evidence is needed to show benefits, especially on other areas of the skin like the face,” he says.
